Headjoint Dents and Dings

Dented headjoint

Same headjoint after repair

Picture this scenario: you've accidentally bumped your headjoint against something (like a stand), and panic sets in. You question what to do -- call your repair technician?  Figure it's not so bad and leave it?  It may be difficult to decide -- after all, how can you tell if it's going to be a problem or if it can/should be fixed?  We spoke with Powell's repair technician, Rachel Baker, to find out!

Rachel said small dents and dings are not usually a problem. However, if the dent is so big that it is constricting the flow of air, you definitely need to have it repaired.  If your headjoint is made from solid precious metals like sterling silver or gold, it should not be a problem to repair.  However, if you're headjoint is plated, Rachel says the dent could be removed and "look better but never fully 'disappear'."

So, can all dents be repaired?  If the dent is on the headjoint tubing, most of the time, yes.  If the dent is on your lip plate, well, unfortunately, that would not be able to be repaired (see previous post on dented lip plates by following this link).  If you've dented the tenon, you'll definitely need to call your repair technician and get that fixed right away.  Rachel says a dented tenon needs to be repaired so that it will fit into the flute properly and not leak air.  Most tenon dents can be repaired.  According to Rachel, "If it's a dent, yes.  If it's a complete crunch, no..."  To read more on how tenon dents are repaired, click the following post titles to read more:

Dented Headjoint
Dented Tenon - Part I
Dented Tenon - Part II

Repair Technician Rachel Baker removing dent in tenon.

Wooden Flute COA

We stopped by the repair shop and found our repair technician, Rachel, working on something a little different -- a Handmade Custom Grenadilla flute.  Not that a grenadilla flute is that unusual, but we see her repairing and adjusting metal flutes most frequently.  This particular grenadilla flute was in for a C.O.A.

So, are there many differences between a C.O.A. on a wooden flute and a metal flute?  Well, not really.  As for mechanics, wooden flutes are currently available only with an offset G and would not have a C# trill -- but those are really the only differences with the mechanism.  Additional adjustments that would be performed with the wooden flute is that the bore is oiled, and the tenon cork is replaced as needed.  When we stopped in to see Rachel, she was in the midst of some small adjustments, including replacing felts and adjusting spring tension.  She had already replaced the tenon cork and was now making minor adjustments to the cork's width.  To do this, she placed the flute on a mandrel, cut a small strip of fine grit sandpaper, and sanded the cork.  Other than tenon corks and bore oil, there really aren't many differences to steps performed in a C.O.A. on a wooden flute.  However, because the body of the flute is wooden, Rachel did mention that it is less likely to come in to the shop with damage to the body -- like small dents and dings that may happen to the body of a metal flute.  That being said, you still want to make sure to protect your wooden flute, even if it's body material is denser and more "ding resistant."  In terms of frequency, you would send in a wooden flute just as regularly as a metal one for a C.O.A, and you should be able to enjoy many happy years with your well-adjusted grenadilla flute!

Replacing a felt.  Same felt that is used on metal flutes.

Trimming the felt.

Checking spring tension.

Making sure to check everything thoroughly.

Making minor adjustments to tension with a spring hook.

Checking newly adjusted springs.

Sandpaper will be used for tenon cork.

Small strip of sandpaper has been cut.

Sanding the tenon cork.

Greasing the cork with some Chapstick.

Cleaning inside the top of the footjoint.

New cork fits perfectly.

Pop Goes the Piccolo

Powell Custom Piccolo

If you’ve been playing piccolo and find that your low register has become weak, what could be the culprit?  Perhaps a leak?  Well, yes, that is often the case when notes suddenly do not speak or become difficult to play.  On the piccolo, a leak could certainly be the issue in this scenario, but it might not be coming from where you think it is…

Here is something to try – take the headjoint off the piccolo, make sure the tenon cork is well greased, and then put the headjoint back on.  Pull the headjoint quickly straight off the instrument.  You may give it a slight twist to assist the process.  Listen for a pop as it comes off the body.  Do you hear it?  If you don’t hear a pop, and you are struggling with the low register, you may not have proper suction between the headjoint and body.  This means that air is leaking from this spot!  Corks can seal air, and there is a cork on your piccolo body tenon.  However, it is more likely that the air is leaking from an improper seal of the metal-to-metal connection.  This connection, specifically, is between the inner sleeve of the headjoint and the metal ring on the top of the body tenon (which the inner sleeve fits into when the piccolo is assembled).  Even if the cork is sealing, and there is no static leak to the outside of the instrument, a loose metal-to-metal fit causes an internal, dynamic leak.  This internal leak saps acoustic energy from the vibrating air column of the bore.

Is this something that can be remedied?  Of course!  In fact, our wood specialist, Tim Burnett, assures us that it is quite an easy fix.  However, this should only be done by a certified repair technician – so don’t try this at home!  The solution in the case of a headjoint that fails the “pop test” is to expand the inner sleeve.  Over time, it can shrink simply from the basic wear and tear of assembling the piccolo.  To expand the inner sleeve, the headjoint is placed on an arbor, and the inner sleeve is expanded ever so slightly.  It’s very similar to the headjoint fitting procedure on a flute headjoint that is too loose, which we visited in the previous post at http://www.repairmyflute.com/2012/09/headjoint-fit.html.

As is the case with many repair issues, a leak in the metal-to-metal connection of the body and headjoint may not be visible to the eye.  However, it is common, easily repaired, and quite detectable through the “pop test!” Give it a try – hopefully your piccolo is popping!

Red arrow points to the inner sleeve.  Yellow arrow points to where the inner sleeve goes into the tenon.

Putting the headjoint on for the "pop test."

Headjoint is on.

Pulling the headjoint off (with a slight twist).

And...

Pop!  It's off, and the air seal is good!

Headjoint Fit

We all know how important the headjoint is on a flute, and obviously, so is the headjoint fit!  Our repair department and flute finishers are all quite familiar with fitting headjoints -- whether it is for a new flute on its way to a customer or for an instrument coming in to us.  For flutes coming in, a customer may send the flute for repair and need a headjoint fitting or s/he may have purchased a new headjoint that needs to be fitted to the flute.  What are the scenarios we come across?  Well, it's pretty straightforward.  Most of the time, the headjoint is either too loose or too tight in the barrel.  In the case of the headjoint being too loose, the headjoint is placed on a gauged arbor to expand the tubing.  If the headjoint is too tight, the headjoint tenon would need to be carefully sanded.  (The tenon on the headjoint is the bottom portion that goes into the barrel).  Flute finisher Karl Kornfeld states that "the fit should be smooth and even, especially since the headjoint is used for tuning.  You should not have to force the headjoint into the center joint, and the headjoint cannot turn while you are playing.  The fit should be even around and down the length of the tenon so that it doesn't snag going into or coming out of the barrel at any point." 

Of course, there are additional culprits that could lead to a "bad fit," and this would include physical damage.  If a flute headjoint is damaged in any way and loses its perfectly round shape, it would not fit properly.  We visited this scenario in a previous post on a dented tenon.  In that situation, the headjoint tenon would need to be re-rounded to gain its original shape.  However, damage does not always occur from the outside...  In fact, a headjoint tenon could be damaged by the inside of the flute's barrel.  If the inside of the barrel has a burr or is otherwise not completely smooth, it could cause deep scratches to the headjoint that would lead to improper fit.  In this case, the technician would need to smooth out the inside of the barrel to begin the headjoint fitting process.  Note -- if your headjoint has some light scratches on the tenon, that is probably normal from everyday use.  If you have any concerns, make sure to consult your repair technician.

So, we've seen some challenges to tackle in headjoint fitting -- too loose, too tight, physical damage such as dents and scratches -- but there is a very commonplace issue that could lead to either a temporary improper fit or possibly even damage.  This issue is very simple -- dirty tenons and barrels!  Headjoint tenons and the flute's barrel can accumulate all kinds of dirt and grime from everyday wear and tear.  As things get dirtier and it becomes harder to assemble the flute, some people are prone to grease up the headjoint tenon with something like cork grease or other lubricating oils and creams.  Don't do it!  The creams, greases, and oils will build up on the tenon and inside the barrel, attracting more dirt, dust and grime.  If it becomes difficult to assemble the flute, forcing the parts together could lead to damage.  So, make sure to keep your headjoint tenon and the inside of your barrel clean.  What do you need for this?  Well, just a simple, untreated microfiber cloth.  To clean the headjoint tenon, simply wipe the outside with the cloth.  For the inside of the barrel, cover your finger with the cloth and gently wipe the inside of the barrel.  Our videos below will demonstrate this simple yet extremely important step in keeping your flute happy and healthy!
   

Video 1: Cleaning Headjoint Tenon

Video 2: Cleaning Barrel and Body Tenon

A Steamy Topic: Taming Tenon Corks

By Windworks Studio of Philadelphia

Bev and Linz (“The Girls in Philly”)

Musical instrument makers and repair technicians don’t need to be reminded that quality cork is hard to come by. In fact, it is pricier than fine perfume. Good cork has to be hand-picked and there are industries who, like ourselves, find few or no workable substitutes. Cork is alive, it breathes, it wicks moisture and is forgiving on tenons and tone holes. Cork can also tear, burn and crack when we place it - particularly if it is not premium cork. In fact, the quality designations seem to have shifted as cork commodity has become harder to access with rising demand. What used to be considered a “moderate” grade is now often labeled as “premium”. 

Torn piccolo tenon cork in need of replacement.

What do you do when you are replacing a piccolo tenon cork and the cork you have is less than ideal?

Ideal premium sheet cork on left, and less than ideal cork on right.

We all know that cork to be placed on a piccolo tenon has a tendency to crack, especially with less than ideal cork.

Well, here is a simple tip that just might make your day easier!  Cut your cork, sand and adjust the fit. To ease the strain on your cork and improve workability, place your prepared cork over a whiskey glass filled with steaming water. 

Cork strip placed over a whiskey glass filled with steaming water. Notice the curling.

As the cork steams, it rehydrates, curving just enough to make a flawless placement much easier. Be sure to apply your adhesive of choice after the cork has been steamed. You are now ready for some Stars and Stripes!   

 Adapting cork to piccolo tenon with ease of workability.