Showing posts with label grenadilla. Show all posts
Showing posts with label grenadilla. Show all posts

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Care Tips for Wooden Instruments

Powell Grenadilla Custom with 14k rose gold mechanism

Break-in Period 

A brand new wooden instrument must be properly broken in to assure the instrument reaches its fullest potential. For the first two months you should play your instrument for no more than twenty minutes at a time. Let it rest for four hours, making sure you swab your instrument immediately after each playing session. During the first month, do not play the instrument more than twice a day; during the second month, you may increase the frequency to three times a day. After the first two months, gradually increase both the time and frequency of playing sessions until, after six months, the instrument may be regarded as fully broken in.

Preventing Cracks

A well made and well cared for wooden instrument will improve with age and give you years of delight. To minimize the chance of cracks occurring, two cautions are absolutely essential: 
(1) Avoid rapid changes in temperature (keep the instrument well insulated and do not leave it in your automobile), and (2) Never allow standing moisture to accumulate in your flute or piccolo, especially in the headjoint. 

Oiling
The benefits of oiling are an improved appearance and a slight increase in the moisture resistance of the wood. Only Powell Flutes or an authorized Powell repair technician should undertake the task of applying oil to the bore of a body or footjoint. Your wooden headjoint may benefit from an occasional application of almond oil to the bore and embouchure hole after it is at least one year old. Use only pure pressed almond oil. Use extreme caution in wiping around the embouchure hole, as the delicate edges of the hole might become damaged. After it is applied the oil must be wiped off thoroughly but gently.

Friday, September 20, 2013

Chip Off the Old Footjoint

We've seen previous posts about repairing dents and dings in metal flute bodies and headjoints, but what happens when there is a nick in a wooden flute?  Well, we happened to be in the wood shop this past week to see how this could be remedied.

In the case of this particular footjoint, there was a small nick in the wood.  Wood surely isn't pliable, so it cannot be reshaped and burnished like metal.  What is one to do?  Well, the solution is to fill the nick -- then secure the filler, file/sand, blend, and buff.  It's really quite straightforward as you will see from the photos below:

Nick has been circled in yellow.
Getting grenadilla dust ready to fill the nick.
Applying the dust to fill in the nick.
Just a bit more dust on top of the filled area.
Filled and ready for glue.
Adding the adhesive glue over the dust filling. 
Glue doesn't take long to dry.
Filing the glue down with a mill file to blend it in.
Using sandpaper for final blending.
Applying oil.
Buffing
And it's done!  A little more oil was applied after blending.  Nick is gone!
If you are interesting in reviewing the previous posts on dents in metal flutes, take a look at the following:

Post on dented headjoint:
http://www.repairmyflute.com/2012/10/dented-headjoint.html
Two-part post on dented tenon:
http://www.repairmyflute.com/2012/06/dented-tenon-part-i.html
http://www.repairmyflute.com/2012/06/dented-tenon-part-ii.html

Friday, September 6, 2013

Changes in the Air


As the seasons change from summer to fall, there are many noticeable changes in the air.  Certainly, temperatures are lower now than they were in the summer months.  As the temperature falls, so does the humidity level – especially here in the Northeast.  That being said, we thought it might be the perfect time to talk about wooden flutes and humidifiers.

A wooden flute is something that is wonderful and somewhat mystical for those who are used to playing on a metal flute.  Obviously, the composition of the body will determine quite a few points in regard to maintenance.  Plus, let’s face it, wood can be a bit temperamental.  That point coupled with the price tag of a Handmade Custom grenadilla Powell can leave new wooden flute owners in a state of panic when it comes to caring for these beautiful instruments!

When we think about wooden instruments, one word comes to mind – the dreaded, five-letter word that starts with a “c” and ends with a “k.”  You’ve probably heard teachers say, “Don’t do that or your instrument will crack!”  What might you be doing that is dangerous?  And why is it dangerous?  Well, wooden instruments need to be kept in environments where there is consistency of temperature and humidity.  Rapid changes can hurt the wood for a variety of reasons and result in cracks.  Keeping the humidity level consistent is particularly important.  Our wood technician assures us that the best way maintain a wooden flute is to play it regularly.  If you play it for a while, leave it for several months (untouched), and then pick it up to play it, you will notice differences which may make playing the instrument difficult.  However, if it is played consistently, the wood will be acclimated to patterns of being played, swabbed out, placed in the case, and then played again.  The cycle continues, and the wood is happy!

As the humidity drops in the fall and winter months, it can become particularly stressful for your wooden flute.  As you play, air goes through the instrument and condenses into water.  You swab it out and put the flute back in its case.  The bore is probably still warm and a bit moist – leaving it in a state where it wants to expand.  Meanwhile, the outside of the flute is surrounded by air that is cooler and lacking moisture, so it wants to contract.  This is a difficult situation for the wood!  Keeping the air around the flute humidified while the flute is in its case will help keep the wood “happier” because it is not prone to opposing tendencies in terms of contraction and expansion.

So, how do you do this?  Well, it is certainly helpful to keep some type of humidifier in the case when you have a wooden flute.  This is especially important in dry, hot areas of the country, where players work very carefully at maintaining humidity levels in the case year-round.  There are a few ways to humidify your instrument.  One of the most commonly used items is a “dampit” humidifier, which is used regularly by string players.  It looks like a long, skinny green tube with a yellow sponge inside.  You’ll want to use the smallest one for your flute (usually a violin dampit).  You can place it in the case on the space between the body and joints (headjoint or footjoint) – but never place it inside the body, headjoint, or footjoint.   How moist should it be?  Well, if you press the dampit and feel water coming out of the holes, the sponge inside is too damp.  If the dampit is lacking “flexibility,” the sponge is too dry.  A nice, middle-of-the road moistness if perfect.  If you are looking for something less expensive, you could use orange peels instead of a dampit.  They work well – and it’s simple enough to get hold of an orange!

Finally, remember to treat your wooden flute very carefully when you take it from place to place.  Don’t set it down next to a radiator after you’ve come in from the cold.  Likewise, don’t place it in a cold, drafty area, either.  If you are out and about – maybe having dinner after a concert – take the flute with you inside the restaurant.  No one will laugh at you for taking the time to make your flute as comfortable as you would be! 

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Wooden Flute COA

We stopped by the repair shop and found our repair technician, Rachel, working on something a little different -- a Handmade Custom Grenadilla flute.  Not that a grenadilla flute is that unusual, but we see her repairing and adjusting metal flutes most frequently.  This particular grenadilla flute was in for a C.O.A.

So, are there many differences between a C.O.A. on a wooden flute and a metal flute?  Well, not really.  As for mechanics, wooden flutes are currently available only with an offset G and would not have a C# trill -- but those are really the only differences with the mechanism.  Additional adjustments that would be performed with the wooden flute is that the bore is oiled, and the tenon cork is replaced as needed.  When we stopped in to see Rachel, she was in the midst of some small adjustments, including replacing felts and adjusting spring tension.  She had already replaced the tenon cork and was now making minor adjustments to the cork's width.  To do this, she placed the flute on a mandrel, cut a small strip of fine grit sandpaper, and sanded the cork.  Other than tenon corks and bore oil, there really aren't many differences to steps performed in a C.O.A. on a wooden flute.  However, because the body of the flute is wooden, Rachel did mention that it is less likely to come in to the shop with damage to the body -- like small dents and dings that may happen to the body of a metal flute.  That being said, you still want to make sure to protect your wooden flute, even if it's body material is denser and more "ding resistant."  In terms of frequency, you would send in a wooden flute just as regularly as a metal one for a C.O.A, and you should be able to enjoy many happy years with your well-adjusted grenadilla flute!

Replacing a felt.  Same felt that is used on metal flutes.
Trimming the felt.
Checking spring tension.
Making sure to check everything thoroughly.
Making minor adjustments to tension with a spring hook.
Checking newly adjusted springs.
Sandpaper will be used for tenon cork.
Small strip of sandpaper has been cut.
Sanding the tenon cork.
Greasing the cork with some Chapstick.
Cleaning inside the top of the footjoint.
New cork fits perfectly.