Showing posts with label flute maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label flute maintenance. Show all posts

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Take a Stand - Part 2

Stand and footjoint
This week, our repair technician, Rachel Baker, received a call from a customer who had been experiencing mechanical problems with her footjoint.  The flute was shipped to Powell, and when Rachel opened the case, she found that there was a flute stand kept inside the footjoint.  The extra length of the stand also made for a very tight fit in the case, which ultimately was not good for the mechanism

Although there are some stands that are advertised as being small enough to keep inside the flute, it's actually more of a hazard than a convenience to store the stand this way.  You never want to leave anything in your flute while it is in the case (click here to read more in our previous post titled "No Extras Needed"), as the risk for damaging your flute is very high.  Also, if you'll recall from our previous post titled "Take a Stand" (click here to read it), one can inadvertently damage their flute if they are not placing it on the stand properly.  Now we can see that there is another situation where a stand could cause damage even without any motion of the flute going on/coming off the stand!  So, although it may seem convenient to have a stand that fits in the flute, it's still best to keep that stand stored separately and simply enjoy the convenience of its small, slender design.

The stand may fit in the flute, but you don't want to keep it this way in the case!

Friday, May 8, 2015

Spring Cleaning

It's that time again -- the flowers are blooming, the temperature is rising, sun is shining, and many of you may be doing a bit of spring cleaning around the house.  It's a great feeling to get everything nice and clean, enjoying fresh air blowing through the windows as you work.

It's also a great time to give your flute a bit of spring TLC -- tender loving cleaning.  We are all very conscientious about swabbing our flutes out thoroughly and wiping the outside down with a cloth after playing.  However, there are a few spots that might get overlooked, and since we've shared posts on these in the past, we took a bit of "inventory" of our cleaning posts to help you!  Below is a list of flute areas to target in your spring cleaning, along with some corresponding posts.  Click on the italicized titles below to view the posts:

Th Embouchure Hole:
A Case of  the Gurgles

The Embouchure Hole and Key Holes:
A "Hole" Lot Cleaner

The Riser:
Cleaning the Riser

Plug-Os
Cleaning Your Plug-Os


Friday, March 20, 2015

No Extras Needed


So you're done with a rehearsal or practice session, fold your polishing cloth neatly, place it over your flute, and close the case.  No problem, right?  Well, actually, we had a student flute in the repair shop this week, and when our Repair Technician, Rachel Baker, opened the case, she noticed a cloth over the flute, which prompted this little reminder...

Don't put anything in your flute case except the flute.  If you have a cloth covering the flute, it will press against the keys when you close the case.  Rachel mentioned that polishing cloths can be kind of bulky, and not only do they exert unnecessary pressure on the mechanism, they can also get caught on key pads, causing the pads to tear.  As for other items -- maybe a swabstick, pencil, etc. -- if they are placed in the case, they can move around, bumping into the flute and causing damage.

Placing additional items in the case outside of the flute is definitely not a good thing -- and placing them inside the flute is also a no-no.  You don't want to leave your swab in the flute after your are done swabbing out.  Rachel says, "You get all the moisture out, and then you put it back in" if you leave the swab in the flute.

There is one exception to the rule -- an anti-tarnish square. These can be placed on the flat area of the case on the far left, as you'll see in the photo below.  Other than this small anti-tarnish square (usually a strip or a very small sponge-like material), make sure there are no "extra" items in the case or on the flute.  Remembering the simple rule of "nothing goes in the case except the flute" should keep your flute happy and healthy!

Anti-tarnish square is on flat spot on the far left of the case (next to body tenon).

Friday, February 6, 2015

In Case You Were Wondering...


We all know that there are many options when it comes to flutes, but did you know that the cases differ as well?  If you have a B foot flute, the case is a bit longer than the one for a C foot flute.  Also, if your flute is pitched at A440, the interior will be slightly different than if it is pitched at A442.  This is true for both B and C foot flutes.  It's a very slight difference, and you probably wouldn't notice it, but Powell's Repair Technician, Rachel Baker, explained...

There is a velvet block at the end of the interior of the case, and this piece varies in length depending on the pitch of the flute.  The velvet block in a case for a flute pitched at A440 is slightly shorter than the block in a case for an A442 flute.  Why is this?  Well, the block is there to hold the main section of the body in place.  A flute pitched at A440 has a body that is just slightly longer than a flute pitched at A442.  That being said, the block inside the case will be shorter for an A440 flute to accommodate for the slightly longer body.  It's not a very big difference, but it is important.  So, if you need to order a new case, make sure you know the pitch of your flute!  Most will be A442, but it might be A440, especially if it was made before 1983.  And, if you do need to order a case, they are available through the VQP Shop at https://powellflutes.com/vqpshop/flute-cases.  You'll notice that for the cherry wood cases and leather cases, there is a reminder to indicate the pitch of your flute -- and now you will know why!

Yellow arrow points to the velvet block.

Close-up on the velvet block.

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Standing Waters

Repair technician Rachel Baker swabbing out a kingwood Custom piccolo.

We all want the best for our flutes and know that the question of humidifying wooden ones in particular comes up quite often. Should you use a humidifier?  Is it overkill?  Can it cause more problems?

Well, we've gotten feedback from our staff, customers, and artists, and we realize that there really is no "one size fits all" answer to this question.  Some people do not use humidifiers and travel from place to place, climate to climate, and have no problems.  Of course, if you are playing your wooden instruments regularly and taking proper care of them, you may not need to use a humidifier.  In a previous post on wooden flute maintenance, we shared the following:
Our wood technician assures us that the best way maintain a wooden flute is to play it regularly.  If you play it for a while, leave it for several months (untouched), and then pick it up to play it, you will notice differences which may make playing the instrument difficult.  However, if it is played consistently, the wood will be acclimated to patterns of being played, swabbed out, placed in the case, and then played again.  
However, one thing that did surprise us recently in a conversation we overheard was the idea that wooden instruments do not need to be humidified because there is enough moisture in the bore after playing.  Hmm.  Well, yes, there is certainly moisture in there after playing, but you do not want to leave it that way!  With wooden instruments, you have to make sure that you thoroughly swab out the bore of the body and headjoint.  Never leave moisture in your wooden instrument -- it could lead to all kinds of problems, including cracking.  

However, we don't want to forget about metal instruments when thinking about "standing waters."  They are certainly not good for the inside of metal flutes, so proper swabbing is crucial there as well.  And, make sure to never put anything in the flute bore and leave it there to absorb the moisture -- like those "fuzzy" looking accessories.  If you use something like that inside the flute to absorb moisture and leave it in there, well, you'll only be left with something moist and fuzzy inside your flute with no place for the moisture to go!

So, remember, swab out your flutes and piccolos thoroughly, take good care to keep them clean, check to make sure everything looks alright inside and out, and if you have any questions or concerns, don't let it wait -- contact your repair technician.

Friday, September 5, 2014

Fall Back into Flute Care!


So, the time has come -- it's fall, and many college students are back in high gear performing in lessons and ensembles after a long summer break.  That being said, there are a couple of things to keep in mind in terms of flute care and maintenance to help students as they shift back into a heavier practice and performance routine.

1.  One simple step you can take as a flutist is to swab out your flute and/or piccolo during rehearsals.  There will always be at least a few pauses or breaks when you can swab out your instruments.  College and university rehearsals are certainly longer than those in high school, so don't limit yourself to swabbing out once at the end -- swab as many times as you need when you can!

2. Wiping down your instrument after you play is critical.  It might seem like it's, well, not that big of a deal to just put it away without wiping the outside, but it is!  You want to wipe down the instrument and headjoint to remove oil, dirt, and residue that can accumulate on the body, keys, and in the embouchure hole.  (Click here to read our previous post on this topic, "Keeping It Clean.")  Those quick breaks in rehearsals when you are not playing are also opportune moments to wipe down the instrument -- so keep a cloth on your lap or closeby!

3.  This may seem like a "no brainer," but it really is important to brush your teeth and wash your hands before you play.  Carry a toothbrush and toothpaste with you -- maybe "travel sized" ones that are small.  There is usually a bathroom where you can stop to brush your teeth and wash your hands before rehearsals.  In fact, you will probably see many people from your ensemble there at the same time!

3. Moisture will affect flute pads, so depending on how much you play and the humidity level of your environment, you may want to keep your case open and let your flute or piccolo "air out" a bit before you close the case and put your instrument away.  Of course, this should be done after you have thoroughly swabbed out the instrument.  There may not always be time to do this extra step, but if there is (say, after you finish practicing), it will definitely help.

4.  Finally, if you have the chance to run a rehearsal -- maybe a sectional, chamber group, flute choir, etc. -- make sure to give the ensemble players time to properly swab out, clean, and put their instruments away before they need to rush off to the next class, rehearsal, or lesson.  Your performers (and their instruments) will greatly appreciate this gesture, and it can really make a difference.

We're sure most of these tips are familiar, but in a college or university setting, the time one spends on his/her instrument can greatly increase -- so proper care for the instrument must match the demands on the instrument itself.  Just remember, the more you play, the more you will need to care for your flute.  Seize those maintenance "opportunities," keep yourself prepared, and your flute should definitely be able to keep up with you!

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Headjoint "A Bit Off?"

New cork assemblies
We recently had a customer who thought something might be a bit off with her headjoint.  She would use her swabstick to check the headjoint cork position, looking to see if the mark on the swabstick was in the middle of the embouchure hole, and it just didn't seem quite right.  So, our repair technician, Rachel, took a look.  The swabstick mark was actually alright, so she didn't need the headjoint cork moved or replaced.  However, Rachel left our customer with a tip.  If you think something might be "a bit off" with the cork, play octaves.  If the octaves are in tune, everything is alright.  After all, one of the functions of the cork is to balance intonation between octaves.  We have a previous post on headjoint cork maintenance that you can read by following this link.

The customer also wanted to have her headjoint checked for fit.  She felt that it might be too loose, and sure enough, it was!  Our technician was able to fit the headjoint by expanding the tenon, and everything was good to go.  Concerned about the fit of your headjoint?  If the headjoint is turning when you play or if you are having trouble getting the headjoint into the body, you definitely should have your repair technician take a look.  Click here to read more from our previous post on headjoint fit.

Friday, July 25, 2014

Have Flute, Will Travel...

The NFA is just around the corner, and we know that flutists from around the globe will be flying in to Chicago.  That being said, we thought it would be a great opportunity to get our repair technician's thoughts on the best way to travel with a flute.  We all agreed that the preferred method is to hand carry your flute in a gig bag so that is on the plane with you.  Our Customer Service Manager gave us a tip from one of her customers, who always puts his flute (in its gig bag) in the overhead compartment across the aisle from his seat so that he can keep his eyes on it at all times.

However, we realize that it is not always possible to carry your flute on the plane.  We asked our technician about flutes in checked baggage, and she said it would be perfectly fine as long as the flute is well-fitted in the case.  To quote her exactly, "the case is designed to protect the flute, and as long as the flute is fitting properly, there should not be a problem."  How can you tell if it is fitting properly?  Well, you can put the flute in its case and give the closed case a shake.  If you feel or hear anything, the flute is not fitting properly.

Our technician tells us that she has seen flutes come in with cases that have "extra padding" inside the top lid to help protect the flute -- but this is definitely not what you want to do.  She has seen bubble wrap, towels, and all sorts of "padding," but this is a huge problem because the padding is pressing down on the key mechanism.  Her recommendation is to pad the case in the areas where the material would only come in contact with the flute body and never the mechanism.  So, where would that be?  It's on the "blocking" of the case, which you will see in the photos below.  If you visualize the case coming down to close, you will notice that the points of contact are not on any part of the mechanism -- only the body.

Yellow lines outline the right side of blocking.  Yellow arrows show points of contact.
Yellow line outlines left side of blocking.  Yellow arrive shows point of contact.

So, regardless of how the flute is transported (hand carried, checked), making sure that it fits properly in its case is critical.  If it does, the case will be able to "do its job" and protect the flute!

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Note to Repair Tech


When you send your flute out for a COA or overhaul, your repair technician will certainly know what to do in terms of standard "procedures."  However, our repair technician asks customers to answer a few questions before sending their flutes in to the shop -- just to give her a general idea of their preferences.  In other words, she likes to know how the customer prefers a few things like fit and tension so that she can make the flute feel exactly the way they like it when it's done!

So, if your technician does not already ask, you should still share your answers to the following questions when you send your flute in for standard maintenance:

1) Are there any problems with the flute?  This would include anything happening with your flute that is not "normal."  You may have trouble getting certain notes out, or you may notice that some keys are harder to close than others.  Perhaps you have some sort of key noise or sticky pads.  The list could go on and on, but you probably get the point!  Let your technician know about any issues you might be having with the instrument.

2) How do you feel your headjoint and footjoint are fitting?  If your headjoint and footjoint are not fitting the way you would like them to, let your technician know.  Perhaps they are too loose or too tight.  Fit issues can certainly be remedied by the repair tech.  It's important to let the tech know, because flute players have different preferences when it comes to headjoint and footjoint fit.

3) How do you like the current spring tension on your flute?  Again, players have different preferences here.  Some players prefer a lot of tension, some not so much.  You can certainly feel the spring tension in your keys when you play.  If you think you would like more, less, or the same, let your technician know.

The technician will normally gauge tension and fit against his/her standards, so even if tension and fit do not need to be adjusted, make sure to indicate this.  Your tech will get a sense of how you like the flute to feel.  When the tech first receives the flute, s/he will evaluate it -- and your answers to the questions above will help in the assessment.  Once your tech knows your preferences, s/he can make sure your flute has the perfect feel when you receive it back from repair!

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Lost Motion

You may have heard the term "lost motion" from your repair technician and wondered what exactly that meant.  We met up with flute finisher Karl Kornfeld here at the Powell shop to help shed some light on this term.  Karl explained that lost motion is a delay between pressing a control key and movement of the slave key.  For example, when depressing the left hand second finger, both keys should move together in unison.  If there is a delay before the slave key is "caught," then you have lost motion.  Lost motion can be caused by faulty adjustments or incorrect key-height settings.  As always, if you notice lost motion in your mechanism, the best solution is to take your flute to an authorized repair person.

Karl is depressing the control key, and the "slave" key is directly to the right (looking at the picture from the front).
Both keys should move together in unison.
If the slave key is delayed in closing, there is lost motion.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Tarnish?

Is your flute tarnished?  Ever wonder how to remove the tarnish and bring back the shine?  Well, unfortunately, the only safe way to do this is to send your flute to a repair technician.  As tempting as it may be to want to run to the store and buy some silver polish -- or rummage through your household cleaners -- don't do it!  Applying these polishes to your flute would be extremely detrimental as you risk damaging your pads and causing the mechanism to come out of adjustment.

However, there are some ways to prevent tarnish.  Most of the preventative measures are simple rules of good "flute hygiene" and cleanliness.  Always make sure to swab out your flute after playing.  Also, wipe your flute down to remove finger prints.  A simple microfiber cloth is the best type to use for this.  Unfortunately, some people have very acidic hands, which may become evident with excessive tarnish problems.  In this particular case, preventative measures will help, but you may find yourself sending the flute for cleaning more frequently.  There is always an option to try flutes with different metal content.    If your flute does become as tarnished as the one in the photos below, it is alright -- your repair technician will be happy to bring back its original shine!